Back to Nature

Thanks to its conservationist owner, the
Exumas' Compass Cay is a purist's paradise.
Story and Photos by JOHN CLEMANS

Nurse sharks sleep on the dock. Hundreds of bonefish drift like a living quilt between the pilings. Yellowtail and mangrove snapper, jacks, angelfish, puffers, grunts and grouper graze in their midst. A barracuda lazes like a log in two feet of water. Mullet and needlefish cruise by over the pure white sand. The sun creeps over the palmettos, the jumbay trees, the seven-year apple trees and the wild tamarinds on the bluff behind the harbor. Its rays strike the simple shed that serves as an office, and on which a hand-painted sign reads, "Welcome to Compass Cay."

Tucker Rolle strolls down the dock and eyeballs the row of Boston Whalers for rent. He knows every square inch of this two-mile-long Bahamian island, bisected lengthwise by tidal flats (which offer fabulous bonefishing, except near the harbor, where it-or any other fishing-is forbidden). Rolle's ancestors, originally from Black Point on Great Guana Cay, farmed Compass back when squatters' rights were sufficient claim to make it theirs. They grew potatoes, corn, pigeon peas, sugarcane, papaya and cotton. In fact, cotton plants still dot the cay.

About 50 years ago, as the Exumas became enticing as vacation properties for wealthy foreigners, the Bahamas government leased Compass Cay as a private retreat. The Rolles returned to Black Point; but, after a few years, Tucker came back to Compass to work for its often absent owners. He's never left. And now it's his.

"I stayed here for many years, taking care of the place without being paid and without even knowing where the owner was," said Rolle. It paid off: In 1990 he applied to the government for the lease, which was in default. On the basis of his longtime presence, often as the island's sole occupant, Compass came officially under his stewardship. Since then, he's been working constantly to make it appear that he's not accomplishing anything. While that might sound like a thankless career, and while it's contrary to the government's paradigm for proprietors (development is favored), it's what makes Compass Cay the best little island in the Bahamas. Compass is not deserted, but it is pristine.

Back in the 1960s, Hester Crawford, a friend of the owner, lived alone in a house atop the surf-splashed rocks on Compass Cay's east side. Charlotte McClish, another middle-aged woman, lived on a boat in the harbor. Each of them had a Land Rover. Despite the fact that these were the only cars on the island (today there are none), Crawford and McClish collided head-on one night. Crawford was injured and never returned, but the skeletal ruins of Hester's house still stand.

Another landmark that's named for a former resident is Rachel's Bubble Bath, a lagoon on the north end, and the island's loveliest spot. It borders Conch Cut, an "inlet" from Exuma Sound, and the southern boundary of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The lagoon is fed by water from the Sound breaking over a notch in the lava rocks, which often causes froth to form on the surface, hence, "Bubble Bath."

Compass Cay's proximity to the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park is enough to recommend it. The 176-square-mile park is a sanctuary for marine life. No fishing or taking anything is allowed, which makes it a spectacular diving ground and a blueprint for similar sanctuaries in the Bahamas and elsewhere around the world. Thunderball Grotto, featured in the James Bond movie Thunderball, is a popular snorkeling cave off Staniel Cay, seven miles to the south; but the park's Rocky Dundas, which is almost within swimming distance of Compass, has even more spectacular snorkeling caves.

About 15 years ago, Rolle brought some goats to Compass. A large herd now roams the west side of the island. "They're hard to spot, and even harder to catch," he said. But no one tries. Live and let live-that's the informing principal behind Rolle's version of development, and it guides his efforts to maintain Compass in a relatively untouched condition. It's a true paradise, but as nature, not some landscaper, intended it. The only contrivances are necessities: a rambling lodge on a hill; a couple of apartments beneath Rolle's two-story hilltop home; and a protected marina with water and electricity that can accommodate 100-footers. Then comes the good stuff: deserted beaches; walking trails; a natural aquarium; unaffected hospitality. Even the "pet" sharks are friendly-swimming with them and petting them is part of the program.

There's no more spectacular sight in the Bahamas than the Exuma chain viewed from the air. Separated only by narrow channels and powdered-sugar shoals, the Exuma Cays stretch 100 miles, like the tail of a kite, from just south of Nassau to George Town at their southern end, and comprise the Bahamas' most enchanting cruising grounds. Compass Cay lies almost halfway down the chain, surrounded by other small islands with names like Joe Cay, Thomas Cay, Little Pipe Cay, Over Yonder Cay and Sampson Cay, all either private or uninhabited. Sampson, only three miles away, has upscale residences for rent, a store, an excellent restaurant, a fuel dock and a protected marina. Fuel, dockage and fine food are also available at Staniel Cay. Unique, colorful cottages on stilts at the water's edge mark the Staniel Cay Yacht Club-a wonderful place to fly in to and rent a skiff.

But, for me, Compass is where it's at. And Tucker Rolle's vision of ecotourism, his gentle manner, his love and protection of marine life and his unseen, delicate hand in preserving at least one accessible island in the Exumas in as natural a state as possible are the reasons why. You'll find few comparable places to visit. People who know Compass return year after year. Some stay on, living aboard their boats in the harbor. They love the place for its tranquility, its privacy and its immutability. You'll see no ads for Compass, but you'll feel welcome from the moment you step ashore. Trust me, you won't want to step back off.

How to Get There

The central Exumas can be reached in a day and a half from southeast Florida in a moderately fast (20-knot) boat in calm weather. Chub Cay, Nassau or Andros are all possible first-night stops. You can cruise down either side of the Exuma chain. This makes its cays especially cruiser-friendly to owners of small boats, because they offer protection from both east and west winds. Cruising guides and charts are available from Bluewater Books in Ft. Lauderdale (954-763-6533; www.blue waterweb.com). For the best local charts, use the Explorer Chartbook for the Exumas (305-293-4023; www .explorercharts .com). For information about Compass Cay, U.S. call Sandy MacNeill at 727-215-3435, Bahamas call Tucker Rolle at 242-355-2137 or e-mail to compasscay@aol.com.